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This once-popular holiday resort has one of the loveliest high streets in the UK – but chances are, you’ve never heard of it.
Just a half-hour train ride from Edinburgh Waverley lies the picturesque seaside town of North Berwick.
Home to a number of top-rated golf courses that stretch some 30 miles along the East Lothian coastline, this little Scottish gem is also where some of the oldest heritage and natural sites in the UK are located, including Tantallon Castle and Bass Rock.
But if land formations, old buildings and fairways aren’t your thing, there’s a lot more to this quaint seaside settlement to draw in visitors – most notably its gorgeous high street, full of independent shops and restaurants. It’s even been dubbed one of the loveliest high streets in the UK – and we’d have to agree.
Exploring North Berwick’s high street
First there’s the Bostock Bakery, headed up by award-winning pastry chef Ross Baxter, and Lindsay Lees Baxter. As well as the usual suspects (croissants, pain au chocolat and sourdough loaves), it is advisable that you swing by for a freshly-baked jam doughnut – generously coated with sugar and filled with homemade raspberry preserve. You’ll have to be quick though, as these sweet treats are often swiped up early on in the day.
Once you’ve purchased your morning pastry and baked goods, head over to Norden, Time & Tide or the Westgate Coastal Gallery to peruse the knick-knacks, artwork and handcrafted jewellery.
For eats, you’re really spoilt for choice. The Herringbone offers a classy yet pared-back fare, serving up simple dishes made with the freshest, locally-sourced seafood and fish. They also do a mean espresso martini, which makes for the perfect nightcap.
Another highly-rated restaurant is Osteria, a family-run Italian with just three starters, three mains and three desserts to choose from – a dream for those who struggle when presented with too many options.
And, of course, no visit to the seaside would be complete without a trip to the local chippy. We’d recommend North Berwick Fry or TKH Fish Bar – and a healthy lashing of brown sauce and a can of Irn-Bru, of course.
During the summertime, there’s even a Lobster Shack on the harbour wall, serving fresh tacos, chowder, succulent lobster rolls and more, so you can tuck into some delicious food and enjoy the stunning views of West Bay Beach.
Things to do in North Berwick
Take a ferry out to Bass Rock
Approximately 2km offshore from North Berwick, Bass Rock is home to a large colony of gannets, that Sir David Attenborough once described as one of the ‘wildlife wonders of the world.’
Taking off from the Scottish Seabird Centre, there are regular boat trips out to the land formation, costing £34 per adult and £24 per child (aged 7+). Taking a total of 1 hour and 15 minutes, visitors will not only get to see (and smell) the birds up close, they will learn all about the history of Bass Rock (which is far more interesting than it sounds).
Eat lots of seafood
As outlined above, there’s a plethora of seafood to try in North Berwick. Whether you want to tuck into some fresh lobster or sample some seared scallops; you cannot leave the area without trying at least some of what’s on offer (unless you’re vegan or veggie, of course).
Climb the North Berwick Law
Protruding 613ft above sea level, the vantage point from the top of the Law offers panoramic views of the town and the Firth of Forth.
Although a challenging hike in parts (and not advisable on windy days), the Law is definitely worth the climb.
Enjoy a coffee
If the sea breeze and tackling the Law tires you out, you might want to stop off at the nearby Steampunk Coffee for a quick pick-me-up. Opening its door in 2012, the roasters not only serve various brews to customers, they put on events and live music.
Enjoy a round of golf
As is the case with most golf courses, a lot of North Berwick clubs are members-only. However, there are certain dates at certain clubs where visitors are welcomed to play a round – and we can tell you from experience that nothing beats doing 18 holes, in the birthplace of the sport, alongside the breathtaking Scottish coastline.
Clear the cobwebs on a stomp along the beach
Naturally, as a seaside town, North Berwick is full of wonderful beaches – boasting miles of unspoiled coastline. So if you need to clear the cobwebs and get some fresh air, you’ll have plenty of options to choose from.
How to get to North Berwick
If you are visiting Edinburgh, you can catch a train from Waverley station direct to North Berwick. The journey, which starts from £4.40 one-way, takes around 24-35 minutes, with the last train back leaving at 11.14pm.
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