I took ‘Europe’s most beautiful train’ to where Star Wars was filmed

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There is no WiFi, but as I discovered, there’s no need for it when you’re zipping along on one of Europe’s most beautiful train journeys.

Technology be damned, the views do the entertaining. I’ve taken the train that runs from Oslo to Bergen many times in both directions, and the journey never gets old.

The Bergen Line is world-famous for a reason. Fjords, valleys, waterfalls and towering mountain plateaus accompany your astonishing voyage, and your pitstops are all postcard-worthy stations.

Every inch is a feast for the eyes.

Work on the line began in 1875, and it was officially opened on November 27, 1909, by King Haakon VII.

Today, the full route takes anywhere from six and a half to seven and a half hours, covering 471km and stopping at 21 destinations along the way.

One of its most remarkable features is the sheer scale of engineering involved.

The electrified line passes through 180 tunnels, the longest being the Finse Tunnel, which stretches 10.3 km. Many of these passages were dug by hand under harsh mountain conditions.

Most recently, I travelled from Oslo to Bergen, stopping roughly halfway at Finse for a polar exploration festival. 

The trip took just over four hours. While the temperatures outside were subzero, with a generous sprinkling of snow, the train cabins were balmy; so much so that most passengers ditched their jumpers.

Unlike economy train seats in the UK, the Bergen Line seats are very accommodating and more akin to armchairs, with footrests and adjustable headrests. 

The warm temperatures and comfy seats make it easy to drift off, so I set my phone alarm in case I missed my stop.

I was travelling with a group of friends for the festival, but as we had all been assigned different seats, we agreed to meet in the café carriage.

Along with the views, my other favourite thing about the Bergen Line is the delicious hot chocolate (this is Norway after all).

If you travel in business class (known as Plus), you get free unlimited refills before settling in for the full seven-hour journey in a lay-flat bed.

In economy, the café is one of the best spaces to spend time, with windows running the length of the carriage and large communal tables.

The four-hour journey to Finse seemed to fly by, and all too soon our stop arrived. I wonder if I’ll ever say that about GWR.

Finse is the highest point on any mainline railway in Northern Europe, sitting at 1,222 metres (4,009 feet) above sea level. 

This isolated station lies above the tree line and is often snowbound in winter, giving it an almost Arctic feel year-round.

Remarkably, this is the same location where the ill-fated Terra Nova Expedition, led by Robert Falcon Scott, trained for the South Pole. It remains a training ground for polar explorers today. 

British adventure company and apparel brand, Shackleton, runs regular training camps there.

Like something straight out of a Wes Anderson film, there is a hotel waiting to greet you as you step off the train. Finse 1222 is the area’s only real hub.

The tiny village has no roads or shops and is accessible only by train, by skis in winter, or by bike in the warmer months.

For the past 15 years, the 41-room hotel has hosted Expedition Finse, Norway’s only expedition festival, founded to bring together people passionate about exploration. 

The event now attracts adventurers from all over the world and this year, Ben Fogle was the headline speaker.

‘I’ve been coming here for decades and it really is a magical place,’ he said.

Like us, Ben spent the weekend exploring the surrounding area with his son, with activities including hiking, sled racing on skis and snowkiting.

The food at the hotel is another highlight, with the breakfast spread including Norwegian delicacies such as brown cheese (a sweet, caramel-like whey cheese), fresh whole grain bread and smoked salmon.

Alongside Expedition Finse, Finse 1222 hosts several other standout events throughout the year, including the annual Hoth Strikes Back (or Visit Hoth) gathering.

Held near the location where Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back was filmed in 1979, it brings together fans for location tours, cosplay and talks from people involved in the film’s production.

In the hotel, there are various nods to its movie outing including 
Another spectacular is the Ice Music Festival, which features a full orchestra of instruments hand-carved from locally harvested ice, including violins, cellos, guitars, banjos and drums.

After a packed weekend, we headed back to the platform to catch our train to Oslo. Everyone made sure to be on time – there are only a handful of services each day.

I’d love to do the journey in the warmer months, as I’ve only ever travelled this route in February for the annual festival. Finse 1222 sits beside a glacial lake, but I’ve yet to see it in its full, thawed glory.

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