As we reach the peak of our third climb, my legs are ready to give out. Our shoes are caked in mud, our calves are cramping, but the burst of wind in our faces shocks us back to reality.
It’s been three hours since we started our 15km hike near Lake Windermere. We’ve spent hours teetering on uneven rocks and turning around more than once after going the wrong way. We’ve climbed 1,841 feet in elevation. Tiring, but boy does it feel good.
I was in the Lake District to reconnect with a part of myself I had lost.
Growing up in North Carolina, I spent most of my childhood playing in the backyard, making forts with friends in the ‘wilderness’ and going for walks in the evening.
Since moving to London in 2021, that time has been spent in pubs and beer gardens instead. The closest I get to ‘wilderness’ is a wander through Hampstead Heath.
Lately, I’ve started to miss my younger self, who would fearlessly scramble over poison ivy, pore over mushrooms and build DIY treehouses with sticks and rope.
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And I’m not the only one. Research shows that 44% of Gen Z are now opting for adventure-led holidays, with a large number also choosing getaways within the UK.
Every weekend, hundreds of Gen-Z and millennial hikers swarm trails near London with the aim of spending more time in nature and focusing on more sober-led activities.
Where better to do both than in the Lake District? It’s England’s largest national park and a UNESCO-protected treasure, a place of glacial ribbon lakes, tree-lined valleys and charming chocolate box villages that inspired a generation of literary legends.
A short walk from my accommodation is where Beatrix Potter found her inspiration for Peter Rabbit, and after exploring the area, it was easy to see why.
The great outdoors
The day before, we arrived, suitcases in tow, in Windemere, where we were picked up in an old Land Rover by Ollie, the manager of the King’s Arms in nearby Hawkshead.
The village of Hawkshead, home to just 600 people, is a 20-minute drive from Windermere, hidden away in the undulating landscape.
The two-lane roads are bordered by farmland and babbling creeks, and the centre of the village is almost car-free. The journey is winding. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t nauseous.
Our base for exploring the village and roaming the rolling hills was the King’s Arms, an award-winning pub with excellent food and a handful of snug but comfortable rooms (doubles from £140 in low season).
Saturday morning, we woke early and hauled on boots to tackle the nearby trail from Hawkshead to Coniston (rating: ‘hard’, according to All Trails), which winds past fields full of sheep and cascading waterfalls.
My usual Saturday looks different, but after finishing the (it must be said) VERY difficult trail, I understand the appeal.
The feeling of accomplishment after finishing a gruelling trek, face flushed and feet sore, reminded me just how fun it can be to get outside.
Much-needed fuel
After dragging ourselves to the pub, the beef cheek, broccoli pesto, glazed carrots, leek and potato cake with crackling and jus put me into a food coma. A well-deserved pint of Guinness also sped the process.
The King’s Arms kitchen, headed up by Chef Ross, blends high-end cuisine with pub culture. Priding itself on local ingredients, the care which goes into that decision-making is clear.
The king scallop with Kashmiri sauce, pickled radish and chive oil melted in my mouth, and the chicken scrumpet with chorizo jam was a tender and crispy option for anyone who loves a chicken tender.
For a pub essentially in the middle of nowhere, it is a star.
Opting for a more relaxing second day, we spent the day around Hawkshead town centre, which has fewer than seven shops, most of which are based around the great outdoors.
For those looking for a unique experience, the centre of the village has a place called ‘KITTchEN: P*ssy & Pints’, a cat cafe with great pints and friendly resident cats. Though if you’re the type to recoil in horror at the sight of a stray cat hair or two, maybe give it a miss.
Those who love to cook should head to Hawkshead Relish Company to browse shelves filled with locally-made cooking sauces and jams.
Deserving of special mention is the Grasmere Gingerbread shop. It’s been producing biscuits since 1854 and is now run by third-generation owners Joanne and Andrew Hunter.
When most people think of the Lake District, they go straight to Windermere. But a trip to Hawkshead is worth the detour.
Getting to the Lake District
Return trains from Euston to Windermere cost our writer £100 (without a rail card).
A quick change at Lancaster puts you in Windemere from London in just under 3.5 hours. From there, it’s a short drive to Hawkshead.
Sarah Hooper was a guest of the King’s Arms, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything – our reviews are 100% independent.
A room for two guests with a queen bed starts from £140 a night in low season.
A meal for two at the pub kitchen costs around £100 for two mains, three starters and a good bottle of wine – but it’s well worth the splurge.
