People say Amsterdam is best in spring — I couldn’t disagree more

If you Google the best time to visit Amsterdam, you’ll be told to go in April or May, to see the tulips in full bloom. 

And while I don’t deny that spring is a marvellous time to visit the capital of the Netherlands, personally, I’d wait a few months. In fact, I’d wait until winter.

I visited in November last year and found it to be a glorious place for a winter getaway.

I know it’s not even summer yet, but if you can think a little further ahead, past Aperol spritzes and beach days, you might have just discovered your perfect pre-Christmas break.

What’s so great about Amsterdam in the winter?

On the cobbled streets and quaint canals, Christmas lights cast a warm glow over everything. 

During the day, winter sunlight dances on the water, and, even though it rains quite a bit towards the end of the year, the wet weather somehow feels cosy and charming, instead of the miserable sleet we get in the UK. 

There’s something romantic about strolling along the canal as fat drops of rain ripple on the surface, a large umbrella keeping you dry overhead and a hot drink in hand.  

And if you think it’s special in the daytime, just wait until blue hour hits. 

This occurs around twilight – about half an hour after the sun has set – when the sky turns a spectacular shade of blue.

The streetlights and 17th-century houses reflect off the water, creating the most picturesque scene. You’ll want your camera at the ready. 

But the best thing about Amsterdam in winter? The food.

Where to eat in Amsterdam on a winter break

As a food writer, I care more about food than the average person. I spend an inordinate amount of time thinking about where to eat, what to eat and whether it will taste any good.

With that in mind, I can confirm that Amsterdam is a paradise for hearty, winter grub.

Think sausage, mash and sauerkraut, meatballs and gravy, frites smothered in Parmesan sauce, giant doorstop-sized wedges of Dutch apple pie topped with whipped cream, and cookies, cookies, and even more cookies fresh from the oven.

I started my foodie journey in the most touristy way possible: a cookie cruise.

The cruise is run by Flagship Amsterdam, which does everything from tulip tours to boat parties. This one is in conjunction with Het Koekemannetje, a popular cookie spot close to the canal.

You settle into your seat and learn about the history of Amsterdam’s canals as a waiter serves you Prosecco or boozy hot chocolate. Then about halfway through, the boat starts to slow as it approaches a bridge.

A woman leans over the side and carefully lowers a basket of freshly baked cookies down on a rope to the tour guide, who catches it just in the nick of time before you pass under.

Like a cookie-wielding Santa, the treats are passed around, and you’ll spend the rest of the tour in a sugar coma, enjoying the views.

The cruise costs around £22 per person, but it’s worth noting this fee only includes the tour and one cookie; drinks cost extra.

If boats aren’t your thing, the place to try cookies in Amsterdam is Van Stapele, which makes the most delicious chocolate cookie I’ve ever had in my life. So good are these cookies, they are the only thing it sells.

The signature is a dark chocolate cookie base, with a molten white chocolate filling that perfectly balances rich and sweet flavours. The edges are crisp, while the middle is soft and gooey.

Don’t be put off by the queues, this place is worth all the hype. You’ll regret getting one. Buy a whole damn box.

Other unmissable sweet treats include the apple pie from Winkel 43. Instead of a pastry, this pie has a crumbly topping that’s more akin to Lotus Biscoff biscuits, and it’s sweet, fruity, spiced, and bigger than your head.

But Brits, be warned, if you go there and order a cup of tea, they will give it to you in a highball glass, and it will feel fifty shades of wrong.

Of course, no trip to Amsterdam is complete without a Stroopwafel.

I tried the viral ones from Van Wonderen, and they were nice, but I’d recommend saving your money and heading to a local market.

The stall might not be as aesthetic, but they’ll make it up fresh in front of you, with warm oozy caramel, and it’ll taste just as good, for a fraction of the price.

For those who aren’t into sweet treats, I visited three incredible places serving savoury delights.

First, there’s Davie’s, which has a pastrami sandwich that rivals the iconic Katz’s deli in NYC.

Then Bagel Boy, with an equally epic BEC bagel. And finally Heemelrijck, for traditional Stamppots, a Dutch dish made with mashed potatoes, veg and sausages.

My top tip? Swing by the Bagel Boy near the Rijksmuseum just before it closes at 3pm. You might be offered a bag of leftover bagels free of charge.

And don’t think I’ve forgotten about drinks.

Coffee snobs will be in their element at Greek coffee bar Kafenion, while for cocktail drinkers, Pulitzer’s Bar is a real vibe.

Order an Oh! Rosa from the alchemy menu, grab a window seat and people watch. The perfect winter getaway.

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