Forget the glossy brochures of newlyweds clinking champagne flutes on dazzling white sand.
While the Seychelles has been pigeonholed as the ultimate ‘fly and flop’ honeymoon destination, it is a whole lot more than that.
And, although it vies for attention against rivals like the Maldives and Mauritius, it is, my experience, superior.
On the islands that make up Africa’s smallest country, there are none of the over-commercialised resorts that are ten-a-penny in Mauritius, and the scenery is brilliantly diverse compared to the flat (albeit immaculate) landscape of Maldivian atolls.
Beyond its palm-embroidered beaches and the turquoise water that kisses the shore, the Seychelles is home to a rugged wilderness with spectacular granite mountains to hike and tropical forests to explore.
This is not a place where you lie in a sun lounger all day, cocktail in hand. The beating heart of this beautiful country is its culture: a vibrant melting pot of African, European, and Asian influence.
Here’s the best of what I saw – and where I stayed – on a six-day visit.
The Garden of Eden
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Fresh off a smooth Qatar Airways flight into Mahé, we transfer onto a seaplane for a 15-minute hop between islands.
It’s breathtaking to fly over turquoise waters that glitter in the sunlight, while the tropical shores of Praslin – the Seychelles second-largest island – creeps into view.
After a grill-to-plate dinner followed by a delightful night’s sleep at the Indian Ocean Lodge Hotel, the real Seychelles experience begins at the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site so primal and lush, it is often said to be the original Garden of Eden.
Under a canopy of ancient palms, we track the legendary Coco-de-Mer, the world’s heaviest (and most suggestively shaped) nut.
This forbidden fruit’s shape resembles a woman’s booty — Kim Kardashian eat your heart out. Weighing in at up to 40kg, it’s the stuff of legend in Seychellian culture and regarded as a fertility symbol.
Best time to visit the Seychelles
The best time to visit the Seychelles is in April and May, or October and November. This is due to fewer rain showers and calmer seas.
As the sun dips, the forest transforms. The air grows heavy with the scent of damp earth and foliage, while the rare Black Parrot whistles its final notes of the day.
There is a mystical, nocturnal energy here—a sense that the forest has remained unchanged for millennia, thriving in a shadowy prehistoric glory.
My time on Praslin is short, sadly, as Creole cooking, cocktail making, and fruit picking are calling me back to Mahé.
‘Fruishi’
I’m swept into the lush tropical Vallee de Fruits for its plantation tour. This is the Seychelles’ first organic fruit plantation and eco-tourism experience, rooted in sustainable development.
Bring sensible walking shoes to explore every inch of this beautiful reserve.
Take in mesmeric views of the ocean while swinging between trees in a comfy hammock, or let the force of all that lush scenery inspire you to break out your favourite yoga pose from the top of its highest peak.
Trekking is thirsty work, but the reserve’s owners are ready and waiting with a delicious tray of ‘Fruishi’ — their version of sushi.
Fresh fruits grown in the plantation are sliced like sashimi and served on palm leaves. It looks incredible, tastes even better, and surprisingly, is filling. Win win.
‘Grandma’s Savoir Faire’
At the Domaine de Val des Près, the focus shifts from nature to people.
Through the ‘Grandma Savoir Faire’ program, we trade beach towels for aprons.
It’s a hands-on experience where you dive into Seychellois culture, just like the old days.
The cooking is a masterclass in Creole spice. Local chefs demonstrate the array of indigenous produce, using fresh spices and vegetables to create mouth-watering vegan curries while we sip on coconut cocktails.
In the artisan village, local creators turn coconut husks and shells into intricate jewellery and homewares. It’s a tactile, sensory connection to the land that a beach lounger cannot provide.
Far removed from the high-end luxury of Mahé’s resorts, these heritage estates offer a glimpse into the island’s working history and its resilient, creative spirit.
Mahé’s beating heart
The Republic’s capital, Victoria, is situated in the north-east of Mahé and brings an urban flavour to island life.
Despite its cosy feel – there are only two dozen streets – it is the beating heart of a nation that is far more diverse than its ‘luxury’ label suggests.
The town is a mix of stone and wooden houses from the early 20th century, their facades and shutters a bright range of colours.
Home to 25,000 – the largest settlement in the Seychelles and the country’s only city – it’s a must visit for many reasons.
Victoria’s birth harks back to the French settler period in 1778, before it was later given its name by the British, after Queen Victoria.
And there is a real taste of a very recognisable London institution that stands out in its centre.
The ‘Little Ben’ clock tower stands as a silver sentinel to the island’s colonial past, a replica of the black red and gold cast iron miniature clock tower at Vauxhall Bridge Road.
Legend has it that the governor of the time saw the clock on a visit to London and ordered the smaller copy to be made.
Time your visit well as a special quirk of the clock is that it strikes twice on the hour, instead of once.
While held in fond regard by locals, there’s something incongruous about this monument – a symbol of the town – standing there imperious amidst the tropical and colourful laidback ambience of the Seychelles.
But the real magic is found in the Victoria Market.
Following the scent of cinnamon and salt fish, the market is a bustling riot of colour where the catch of the day can be found laid out on ice.
Elsewhere, worthy stops include the Botanical Gardens, the university, as well as several museums and places of worship.
End the day with a stroll to the harbour for a sundowner (or two).
The best hotels in the Seychelles
On Mahé
In Mahé, I stayed at Mango House – once the private home of legendary Italian fashion photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri, whose spirit of connection still infuses every aspect of this intimate hideaway.
This southern hotspot offers a serene place to rest your head and rejuvenate from its stunning cliffside position to its plunge pools and array of fabulous dining options.
The staff are warm and helpful, and there is a true sense of community in this 41-room outpost.
Accomodation is chic but in keeping with the island’s light, natural colours, with traditional furniture and materials to mirror the beauty of the ocean.
On Denis Island
For the final and most memorable leg, we headed to Denis Private Island.
Here, the night comes alive. Away from the light pollution of the mainland, the Seychellois sky becomes a glittering tapestry of ancient constellations.
Activities here aren’t about jet skis or being seen, they are about conservation and adventure.
The island has a strict no WiFi policy in rooms, so having a smartphone becomes redundant.
It is a shock at first to be on a 375-acre coral island in the Indian Ocean, cut off electronically from the world apart from the nature around you.
But that’s what makes this incredible place so special. Its return rate of guests is testament that its digital detox policy works.
The island is famed for its family of giant tortoises and famous incumbent -Toby the Tortoise – who turned a startling 128 years of age on January 1.
Toby doesn’t do much these days apart from sleeping and consuming leaves in the sunshine while hundreds of his offspring surround him, but he appears happy to have visitors.
He is something of a legend in the Seychelles, and it was an honour to feed him while being chased down by other giant tortoises (they’re surprisingly nippy when they spot food) and learn all about these incredible ancient creatures.
The hotel gives you your own bicycle to pedal around the island – great fun whizzing along a sandy track, especially after a cocktail or two – although there are buggies available for those with mobility issues.
Trekking through its forest trails to spot nesting sea birds is a must-do.
But the best waits for darkness to fall. Stargaze on secret stretches of sand or dance between fire posts while sipping on cocktails mixed from local ingredients.
If your legs are tired after all that walking and cycling, the island offers massages at your bungalow. It feels decadent to be massaged outdoors while birds tweet above you and the waves gently lap at the shore.
Sarah Robertson was a guest of Turquoise Holidays and Indian Ocean Lodge, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything – our reviews are 100% independent.
To book this trip to the Seychelles or any of the accommodation please visit the Turquoise Holidays website or Indian Ocean Lodge website.
Air Seychelles is now operating 3x weekly direct flights from Paris (until 28 June 2026, flights operate on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday) and 2x weekly direct from Rome (Wednesdays and Saturdays, currently until 29 April 2026). Return flights from €1,246.70pp.
