Seven years ago I left Sydney. Hungry.
Hungry for opportunity. For adventure. For better food.
Sure, the city has always had a decent breakfast offering, but when it came to nosh and drinks, unless you were flushed with cash or minimal expectations, Melbourne always took the cake — literally and figuratively.
And when I was met with the inevitable ‘why did you leave Sydney to move to the UK?’ I had a roll call of reasons, most of which started with the lack of buzz compared to London. But I can tell you, dear reader, the place is well and truly buzzing now.
After returning Down Under on a whirlwind trip last February, I found a city transformed. I’m not afraid to admit I was both shaken and stirred by its explosive new culinary scene.
From world-class cocktails to quirky cultural delicacies, smashed avocado with the best view in the city, tantalising tartare teamed with tequila, whimsical cocktails that boggle the senses and more salty oysters I knew existed, it’s a far cry from the Sydney I remembered after the Lockout Laws snuffed the flame of fun from the city in 2014.
This will feed your belly. But there’s a soulful edge to the ‘Emerald City’ that I’d shrugged off until now.
Things to do in Sydney: the non-negotiables
While it’s come leaps and glitzy bounds in recent years, there are the postcard tourist ‘musts’ you’ve got to do, even if you were once a local.
You can tour the Opera House (and you should; a one-hour tour took me underneath the world-famous sails to areas I’d never known existed when I lived in the city).
You can also eat at Cafe Sydney overlooking the Harbour Bridge and still have a roaring time. A private charter (I was lucky enough to hop aboard Lifestyle Charters for a spin across the water) will show you the nooks and crannies that a walking tour cannot, all with a tray of fresh oysters and prawns, cheeses and meats to scoff while taking in the views.
Now let’s get the basic bitch-ness out of the way: brunch in Bondi.
Where (and what) to eat
Australia – Sydney in particular – has always done brunch well.
A visit to Glory Days (@glorydays_bondi), inside Bondi’s iconic Pavillion, illustrates why it’s still leading the game, no matter how many times Boomers cite a proclivity for smashed avo on toast as the reason we don’t own homes.
From the Cali Classic pancakes drowned in berries and banana ($24, £12), to the Bondi Big Brekkie ($28, £14) the meals are hearty and moreish. Or, build your own plate, with gooey scrambled eggs, crunchy hashbrowns and some perfectly ripened avocado to really lean into the Aussie-ness of it all. Why not add some blackened charcoal bread? We are in Bondi, after all.
From your seat, people-watch on what may be one of the most famous stretches of sand in the world, with tanned locals who’ve been up since 5am (Sydney rises early) and TV-star lifeguards patrolling the shore.
After seeing bronzed bikini-clad babes, the last thing I felt like doing was continuing my foodie tour of the city, but when in Sydney…
Dean and Nancy’s On 22 (@deanandnancyon22) is a non-negotiable for cocktail lovers. Hoisted high above the city on the 22nd floor of the Adina Hotel, I marvelled at the artistry, expertly made by our mixologist extraordinaire, Koby. It should come as little surprise that this is the sister bar to Maybe Sammy, which was last year named the number one bar in the world by Top 500 Bars. So this crew knows what they’re shaking.
The specials are, well, intriguing to say the least. They’ve since launched a new cocktail menu starting from $26 (£13) – don’t worry, the classics are always available – but my pick from the ‘celestial’ themed menu is the Alien On Holiday: Hendrick’s gin, fino sherry, pistachio orgeat, lime juice, aloe vera, and green kiwi.
Need to run to the loo? The team will pop your drink in the fridge to keep it cool ‘til you return. It’s the small things.
Afterwards, take your tizzy self to Esteban (@estebansydney), in one of Sydney’s rabbit-warren alleyways. Tucked underground, it’s a dark and dingy wonder cavern of tequila. Over 200 types, in fact.
Tuck into smoked black bean dip ($17, £8), steak tartare tacos ($14, £7), the adobo marinated pork Taco Al Pastor ($14, £7) and fresh yellowfin tuna ceviche ($29, £14) over a spicy marg (cocktails start around $21, £10). You can’t beat it.
Where to stay
Intercontinental Sydney
Built into the sandstoned walls of what was once The Treasury Building of 1851, this hotel is a beautiful blend of chic charm and contemporary glam.
It truly earned its five stars from the bathroom stocked with bougie Byredo goodies to the roomy suites with a vista of the Sydney Harbour and Opera House and Botanical Gardens (for some; city views for others).
Intercontinental double rooms start at £180 per night.
W Sydney
If the Intercontinental is of the classy, pearl-wearing set, W Sydney is the neon-lit cousin that knows what rizz means. From street art-adorned eatery BTWN (don’t be fooled, oysters and champagne still go here) to the towering rooftop pool with what may be the best water-based views of Darling Harbour, this hotel is bold, bright and brilliant. It’s not traditional by any means, if you are looking for a more reserved stay – it’s for those who ‘do it for the ‘Gram’.
W Sydney double rooms with city view start at £166 per night.
When to visit
February is the perfect time of year to schedule a trip to the city to take advantage of bright, sunny days and warm temperatures, and CIRQ, part of the city’s fresh Barangaroo precinct, is giving perfect Vegas pool club vibes in which to bask.
From level 26 of the Crown skyscraper it’s serving beach club, without the sand and the gaudiness, but still delivering on the fun tunes, a carefree atmosphere and a delectable menu.
If you’re travelling with a group, I suggest Oxford House (@_oxfordhouse_) for a joyously celebratory brunch and boogie. The day I was there the DJ was spinning Kylie Minogue tracks all lunch, which, naturally, included an all-diner singalong to Kids.
Forgive my previous feelings about you, Sydney, you are, quite honestly, a vibe. I’ve left feeling so full — yet hungry for more.
How I got there
I get it, the thought of a 24-hour flight isn’t ideal, but I’ve always been of the opinion that your holiday begins as soon as you get to the airport, which certainly justifies the early-morning bar bubbly.
This time I was lucky enough to fly to Sydney courtesy of Emirates in Business, meaning the holiday was on a whole other level before I even made it to bag drop.
Only 10 minutes had passed from the moment my chauffeur dropped me off outside Heathrow Terminal 3 to when I was pouring a flute of Moet in the Business Class Lounge, what with speedy bag drop and security breezing travellers through.
It goes to show how quick and painless those security lines *could* be…but it’ll cost ya.
Within minutes of boarding the mammoth Airbus A380 I was greeted with a glass of champagne, a warm towel, and a chic Bulgari bag of toiletries. Then came the noise-cancelling headphones, the soft cotton pyjamas, the eyemask and the slippers.
You want to know about the beds though, don’t you?
Reclining in the famous lie-flat beds (managing a full night’s sleep across the two legs), and taking in more food than I would like to admit, with three separate courses at every meal – not handed over all at once, but one by one, on a table cloth with *actual* cutlery. Blueberry pancakes just hit differently at 38,000 feet, you know?
It would be a completely wasted trip if I didn’t swing by the onboard bar in my pjs… Here I found mile-high delight in the cake stand – lemon drizzle, berry cheesecakes… – and a freshly prepared bloody mary whipped up fresh with Grey Goose vodka.
As someone who’s made the journey from the UK to Australia several times over the years, I’d never believe it if someone told me I wouldn’t want the flight to end. Even if you don’t care for the creature comforts, the whole process of flying was made ridiculously convenient.
Pray for my ego next time I travel home up the back…
Mel flew Emirates, business class return fares are from £5,705.
